The orphanage and the dump

Today was a study in contrast.

La Casa Esperanza, The House of Hope

Our first stop was Casa Esperanza, an orphanage that lived up to its name. We drove down a winding dirt road to a hillside suburb of Tegucigalpa with Dr. Claudio, who helped found the orphanage and has been involved in Rescue Task Force and its new sister organization World Emergency Relief.

I asked Dr. Claudio more about the orphanage. There are currently 26 children living there. Casa Esperanza started some years ago with an initial investment of $320,000 and now costs about $3,000 per month to maintain. That covers all costs, including feeding the children and paying staff. It simply amazes me that more than two dozen orphaned children could be comfortably supported by such little money. The orphanage is currently at capacity, but Dr. Claudio wants to build another dormitory, which would raise capacity to about 50 children and operating costs to about $6,000.

The purpose of our visit, aside from playing with the children, was to survey damage to their dormitory from the recent earthquake. There were several large cracks in the building, but thankfully, the damage seemed to be relatively minor and the building still safe to use (not an expert´s assessment).


I was greeted with a BIG hug from a little boy even before I got out of the truck. We handed out candy and balloons, watched their grammar lessons, and took lots of photos. From that first little boy´s hug welcoming me, I was overwhelmed by the positive atmosphere. To be honest, this magnitude of positivity caught me by surprise since I typically think ¨Oliver Twist¨when I think of orphanages. But to these children, Casa Esperanza is a true home in all senses of the word. Though I know that they have already seen their fair share of hardship, it filled my heart with joy to watch these children enjoying the innocence of childhood, a rarity here in Honduras.

The Dump

Our second stop was the dump. I cannot adequately communicate the desperation and desolation of spirit that I saw there. People live there, they live at the dump: children, women, whole families. Some of them get paid 50 cents per day to sort and haul recyclable materials, while others fight over trash that they can sell or trade or eat.


A garbage truck arrived while we were there. When it dumped its load, a hoard of people descended onto the pile of trash like the hundreds of vultures circling overhead. At the top of the pile of trash was a little boy holding up a recyclable cardboard box for a toy scooter that he would never have, but he smiled with his spoils as if he were holding the actual scooter. Then I saw a little girl, who couldn´t have been much more than 8 years old, lugging a sack of trash larger than herself. It was only later, when I was looking at a close-up of a picture I took of her, that I noticed she only had one shoe and wore just a sandal on her other foot. Such is life for these children, robbed of their childhood and their humanity.

There were vultures everywhere, not just circling above. They hopped in and out of the crowd digging through the trash, and they lined the crest of the hillside overlooking the landfill like bandits waiting for an opportunity. As I was taking pictures, Richard (our Honduran guide who accompanied Andrea and me to the dump) abruptly said that it was time to go. Later, when we were back in the car, he told us that a couple men showed him knives and flashed gang signs at him. Esos no son solamente banditos, son malditos. They are not just thieves, he explained, they´re very bad men who are dangerous in their desperation, and they just wanted us to go away. So we went.

I never felt like I was in any immediate danger, but the atmosphere was unambiguously threatening and guarded: every person living at the dump literally fights each and every day for their life. Andrea showed me the dump because she wanted me to see for myself the base depths to which human existence can sink. ¨This is about as bad as I´ve seen it,¨she says. ¨People just don´t want to know, they don´t want to know that this is happening right now, but it is.¨ I don´t want to know, either, but I feel it is my responsibility to know. What can I do about this, though? What can anyone do about such an atrocity when it´s buried and forgotten as easily as tossing your leftovers from dinner in the trash?

Reflections: Honduras earthquake relief mission

We drove back from Puerto Cortez to Tegucigalpa all day yesterday. That 8 hour drive gave me some time to unpack my thoughts and feelings from my first experience in immediate disaster relief, responding to a 7.1 earthquake in Honduras.

We found a group of families whose homes were destroyed by the earthquake and gave them food and other supplies that would help them through the disaster. Rescue Task Force typically responds to bigger disasters, like the 2005 tsunami or Hurricane Katrina, where there's a great need for the immediate presence of doctors and medical supplies. We didn't really know what to expect, going in, and it turned out that no one - amazingly - was in need of medical attention.

These people were very poor to begin with, so losing their home was a catastrophe. I'm glad that we were able to help in what little way that we could, and knowing what I know now I would do it all over again. But I also recognize that the help we were able to give is only temporary, and that at the end of the day, these people still have no home to return to and no resources to rebuild.

Unfortunately, this represents deeply rooted sociological problems endemic to Honduras that a relatively small outfit like Rescue Task Force can't hope to tackle. I strongly believe in the service that RTF provides, acting as first-responders to natural and man-made disasters throughout the world (they say this somewhere on their website), and I will continue to do what I can to support them, including volunteering for future missions. Even so, it's still difficult for me to see these systemic problems and know that there's nothing that RTF can do about it despite its resources, both in the form of money and volunteers with the will to help.

I'll write more about my outside-the-box thoughts on how to address these systemic problems in a later post.

Today, we will visit the orphanage.

RTF #246: Mission Accomplished

Yesterday´s mission was a success. We first surveyed homes that were damaged or destroyed by the earthquake. Then, we talked to los bomberos (the firemen), who are the first-responders here in Honduras, to figure out how we could best help. They told us that 25 families whose homes were destroyed were temporarily relocated to a school not too far away, so we decided that our mission would be to give these families food and supplies. These are unfortunately people who didn´t have much to begin with, even before the earthquake. Thankfully, none of these people were in need of medical attention.

I don´t have time to go into a play-by-play of the day, because we´re heading back to Tegucigalpa momentarily, but I´ll write more when I get back home, and I´ll also post some pictures.

On Monday, we´ll be visiting the orphanage in Tegucigalpa that was described in the RTF newsletter. Then, we´ll be flying back to the States on Tuesday, a day earlier than expected. I will need some time for reflection to unpack all of my thoughts and impressions from this mission. It was such a gratifying experience overall.

Helping the earthquake victims

I am exhausted after a day full of helping people whose homes were destroyed by the earthquake.

We headed out first thing Saturday morning to meet with los bomberos (the firefighters), who are the real first-responders in emergencies like this, survey homes that were damaged by the earthquake, and to figure out what we could do to help. We sat down with el comandante of the firefighters, a stout man with a deep voice, thick Honduran accent, and intelligent black eyes, who carries an air of authority and respect due his position.


The most pressing need, he told us, was drinking water. The earthquake ruptured the pipeline that brings water to Puerto Cortez, leaving a large chunk of the city without potable water. To address this, the fire department has its only three tanker trucks filling up their tanks with water from the unaffected portion of town and distributing water to the city´s 120,000 inhabitants.


Indeed, as we were driving around town, we came across a crowd of women and children with water buckets surrounding one of the fire trucks. It was slowly making its way through the neighborhoods to distribute water. There wasn't any sense of panic, since plenty of water was to be had, but I did feel tension as people in the crowd made sure they got the water they needed. The air was heavy with smoke from fires lit to signal to the firefighters that water was needed. Women chased after our truck down a dusty road to ask us to tell los bomberos to stop by their neighborhood, too. Little children lugged 5 gallon buckets heavy with water from the main road arteries all the way back home.


El comandante told us about two dozen families whose homes were destroyed by the earthquake and were living temporarily at a local public school. It's amazing that there were so few injuries, for such a strong earthquake, and that there was no need for outside medical aid. But their homes were destroyed. Whole families were sleeping outside underneath blue tarps.


We toured the neighborhood where these families live. It was apparent that these people had so little even before the quake hit, but now, what had been modest houses before were definitely not livable. A major problem is that there is no drainage system, so rain water collects underneath the houses and rots the wood. The earthquake just sped up the inevitable. One family allowed us to tour their house, which should be condemned and demolished since the floor had caved in and stagnant water lay in the kitchen, bathroom, and bedroom. This poses obvious health concerns: respiratory ailments and skin conditions due to mildew and mold, not to mention an increased risk of mosquito-born illnesses.


I was agonized to see people living in such conditions and know that there wasn't anything I could do about it. Rescue Task Force is an organization with a modest budget; it's structured to deliver maximum impact with little money through targeted missions, usually in emergency conditions. Rebuilding homes was not in the scope of our mission.

Instead, we decided to help these 25 families whose homes were destroyed by giving them food and basic supplies like diapers. This sounds like a simple task, but it took a lot of coordination with two community organizers who were running the temporary shelter. With their help, we put together a grocery list and, a pack of kids in tow, walked to the local grocery store. Each family got a sack that included food basics such as eggs, milk, flour, rice, beans, and oatmeal, as well as other goodies.

Keeping track of what we purchased was a challenge, as was communicating to the sales clerks what we wanted. It was like playing a game of telephone: Andrea talked to me, I translated into Spanish to our Honduran guide Richard, who then made sure that the sales clerk got it.


I am so thankful for my Spanish because it allowed me to interact directly with the kids. I looked at them, happy and laughing in the grocery store. They were only allowed inside because we told the manager that they were with us, and we were spending big money. It occurred to me that maybe the kids didn't understand what we were doing for them and why. So I gathered them around me and explained to them that we were here to help them and their families because their homes were destroyed by the earthquake, that it's good to help people who are less fortunate. And I told them that I hoped that they would remember this day, what it feels like to be given help, and that maybe one day they could help someone else who needs it. In the middle of all the grocery store fun, it was a brief 30 seconds or so of seriousness. If what I said, or what we did together through Rescue Task Force, made an impression on even one of the kids, that is the real and lasting difference that I hope to have made in coming down to Honduras.

The morning after....shock

I woke up this morning to an aftershock, but it was over before I could even get out of bed and stand in a doorway. Looking on the US Geological Survey website, I found the following information:

MAGNITUDE DATE TIME LOCACTION
4.5 2009/05/30 06:33 OFFSHORE HONDURAS
4.6 2009/05/29 12:51 HONDURAS
4.5 2009/05/29 02:45 OFFSHORE HONDURAS
4.8 2009/05/28 09:06 OFFSHORE HONDURAS
7.3 2009/05/28 08:24 OFFSHORE HONDURAS

Puerto Cortez, Honduras

It´s such a relief to finally settle down into a hotel after 24 hours of traveling. We took a red-eye from LAX to San Salvador then hopped over to the Honduran capitol Tegucigalpa, where we met up with Jim, Dr. Claudio, and our guide Richard. From there, we drove a rickety pick-up truck north across Honduras to Puerto Cortez, the city that reported the most damage and was closest to the quake´s epicenter 60 miles off the coast.

Andrea called me yesterday, as I was frantically getting ready for the trip, to downplay expectations for the magnitude of disaster that we would be seeing. What little was reported in the news seemed to indicate that damage was limited to only a few buildings and bridges and that only a handful of people were injured or killed. However, Rescue Task Force volunteers with friends from this region were telling of much more extensive damage than that. The possibility was even raised that the current president of Honduras might be suppressing news of earthquake damage to keep the national dialogue focused on his efforts to ammend the Honduran constitution to allow him to stay president past his term limit.

So, we were really heading into an unknown. In fact, as we wound our way around the mountain roads and approached Puerto Cortez, I noticed how life seemed to continue uninterrupted: Friday night marketplaces materializing on the side of the road, groups of people walking or riding bikes to the local hang-out, peasants hauling loads of bananas or firewood to sell and make their living. I didn´t see any cracks or other evidence of structural damage, even after we arrived here.

The plan is to scout out the reports of leveled homes first thing in the morning and assess the need for our aid; if none exists, we´ll head back to Tegucigalpa, help out at the orphanage there, then fly back on Monday. "This is the business of rapid response disaster relief," Andrea says. Sometimes there are false alarms.


On a side note, Rescue Task Force has been on the news all day today after news crews descended on us at the airport while we were waiting for our rickety rental pick-up truck. Everywhere we stopped, people recognized us from the news casts. After dinner tonight, a little boy walked up to me and said ¨Thank you for helping us!¨ in surprisingly good English. It was very touching. I do hope that we have the opportunity to do some good while we´re here, even if the need for our help isn´t as dire as we originally thought.

Honduras earthquake relief mission

The plan for this weekend up until a couple hours ago was to fly out to Denver to scope out housing. That plan changed this morning when I got an e-mail from Rescue Task Force describing the 7.1 earthquake that struck Honduras at 2:20 AM this morning (see quoted text below). I called up Andrea and Gary to see how I could help, and to make a long story short, I'll be going down to Honduras to help with the disaster relief efforts. I am very thankful to Southwest Airlines for their extremely flexible ticket cancellation policies, as well as to my boss for being fine with me taking such a last-minute vacation.

Back in January, I volunteered with Rescue Task Force for a different type of mission, providing basic medical and dental aide to the indigenous people of the Miskito Coast who live lack such services. We ran a free clinic out in the jungle, and people trekked for days in order to get anti-worm medicine or get a tooth pulled. That experience was eye-opening and transformative in that I got a glimpse of the profound gratification from helping people - people who truly need help - that lies before me as a future doctor.

This relief mission before me now is much more of an unknown. Talking with Andrea, an executive officer of Rescue Task Force and the team leader, even she doesn't really know what to expect once we're there. It's very exciting. I'm looking forward to helping the victims of this earthquake in any ways that I can.

Rescue Task Force (RTF) and World Emergency Relief (WER) are responding to the 7.1 earthquake that struck Honduras at 2:20 AM this morning.

Team Leader Andrea Stone will depart from Los Angeles tonight and fly to Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras where she will meet with RTF team member Jim McNeely, coming from Atlanta. Upon arrival they will meet with our Honduras coordinator, Dr. Claudio Casas who is assembling a local team of Honduran doctors and volunteers – veterans of many RTF jungle missions.

The orphanage that WER-CA sponsors has sustained heavy damage to the dormitory. Thirty-six of our orphans have been moved into the office and the dining area.

Jose our local warehouseman’s home was destroyed. He, his wife and baby are the first of probably many to move into our WER warehouse.

Mission Details to follow as the day progresses. We are in contact with colleagues at the Fire Department in Honduras and the combined team will be coordinating our disaster relief activities with them for help to isolated areas that the Fire department will not be able to immediately assist.

Note to Supporters:
We need help!!! This is a 9-1-1 call for help from our friends in Honduras of so many years. We are responding on faith. Please, can you help send this team…

Donations:
Via website: www.rescuetaskforce.org

Mail:
Rescue Task Force
864 N. Second St. #340
El Cajon, CA 92021